McCalls 6696: The Heavily Modified Version

For my third version of McCalls 6696 I really went rogue! The finished product only slightly resembles the original pattern, but I am pretty happy with it.I was inspired by Idle Fancy’s 6696 with a circle skirt. I used her suggestions for some of the alterations, and winged it for the rest.  Check out what I did below:

Quilting Cotton from Finch Sewing Studio
White invisible zip from Joann’s
10 with modifications
Alterations to the pattern: 
  • shortened the front and back bodice by 1/2 inch
  • cut the front and back skirt on the fold
  • redrafted button band for only bodice length
  • installed an invisible zip in the right side seam
  • stitched the front button bands together instead of using buttons
  • attached only the collar stand NOT the collar itself for a faux (very high) mandarin collar
  • I had a really hard time with the overlapping button bands on the bodice. They are stitched together instead of buttoned, because I liked the sleeker look. The first time I stitched them together, I stitched it too high and it wouldn’t fit over my head!
  • Installing the invisible zip. Oh baby this one gave me trouble. It is the first time I’ve installed an invisible zip in an existing side seam. It took FOREVER to get in correctly and it still bubbles a bit.
Changes for next time:
  • shorten the mandarin collar! This thing is high enough to be bordering on a costume. It’ll work for this version but it should really be about half as tall!
  • Extend the waistband piece. When I went to install the waistband, I forgot that it needed to be long enough to go around the whole bodice. In the original pattern, the button band adds length to the waistband.
  • Buy the right size invisible zip. The only invisible zip I had in my stash was 22 inches long. It worked but it would’ve been a lot easier to just install the 14-16 inch one that I needed.
This project was made for the May Social Sew over at Allie M. Jackson.

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